Brian, that's more like it. I never was much of a fan of that CNC look.
Dan, there is something wrong about that inlay too. Might be paint. Many "The" parts had the dot cut with it as the photo I selected. Others used a dot like Brian's example. Also, the example you chose has half the "b" missing. so it looks like "Guson". Also have to remember that Orville sold it all to Gibson investors (yea, they had 'em then too) and was hand building them till 1906 or whatever...too lazy to look it up.
Many, many Gibsons had the treble scroll knocked off. At some point, a circular piece was inlayed into the mahogany or maple neck part that was probably around 1" in diameter to make the scroll stronger. This particular 3 point looks like a bad repair of a knocked off scroll.
I used to have a teens F2 a very long time ago, but all I have now is a 1921 F4. Most all the headstocks were tapered from nut to tip that I know of. My F4 has the mahogany neck and without top veneer or bottom, 1/2" at the wide part near the nut and 7/16" at the tip. Top veneer is almost 1/16" and bottom is about the thickness of card stock. I also noticed after all these years that it actually has no dot at all!
Hope that helps...
On thinking about it a bit further, I would probably make a diagonal joint by cutting off the peghead and splicing a new peghead center onto the smoothed neck part of the break. Both top and bottom veneers have enough left to strengthen the glue joint. I would cut the taper in the peghead blank. Then I would make an accurate top veneer from ebony and glue it on. I would add the back veneer after I had cut the mahogany to the shape of the peghead and glue it on (taking off the rest of the backstrap) and proceed from there. the mahogany center of the peghead should be soft enough that you could cut it to match the veneer easily with a coping saw and then sand by hand the rest of the way. Don't forget to bevel the top of the peghead as they were beveled and tapered...the back was longer than the top and the faces of the two sides that make the point taper back to front.
Here is the other side. What's happening here is that the cuts are being made perpendicular to the fingerboard.
Hope you can see this but the slant of the tip of the headstock, the bass curl and the wide edge before the nut, all straight lines are also tapered from back to top.
Cut the inlay by hand, you can't do worse than Orville! Blend the dye stain and French polish to finish off.
This has the makings of a very nice repair...
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